Kaiping Diaolou & Chikan: A Magical Realist Heritage
Explore the GBA's only UNESCO World Heritage Site and the legacy of overseas Chinese
Scattered across the countryside of Kaiping, Jiangmen, are thousands of unique fortress-towers (Diaolou) blending Eastern and Western architecture. Built a century ago by overseas Chinese to defend their hometowns, this journey offers a magical realist look into history.
Jiangmen is renowned as China's "Number One Hometown of Overseas Chinese." In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, countless locals traveled to North America to mine for gold or build railways. They sent their life savings back home and, to defend against rampant bandits, built unique fortresses—Kaiping Diaolou—featuring Ancient Greek columns, Byzantine domes, and traditional Chinese stucco reliefs. This, the GBA's only UNESCO World Heritage site, is a massive outdoor architectural museum.
Zili Village & Majianglong: Fortresses in Paddies and Bamboo Seas
We first visit the Zili Village Diaolou Cluster, the main filming location for the famous movie *Let the Bullets Fly*. Fifteen Diaolou stand picturesquely amidst vast rice paddies. Inside, you'll find heavily fortified iron windows and shooting holes, contrasting starkly with hundred-year-old gramophones and imported tiles brought back from the West. This contrast between defense and luxury is striking. Next, we drive to the Majianglong Diaolou Cluster, hailed by UN experts as the "most beautiful village in the world." Unlike the open fields of Zili, these towers are hidden within dense bamboo forests and orchards, resembling isolated green fairy-tale fortresses.
The Pinnacle of Overseas Chinese Gardens: Liyuan
Beyond defensive towers, the returning diaspora also built extravagant private gardens for leisure. Liyuan Garden is the pinnacle, known as the "Grand View Garden" of overseas Chinese architecture. The owner masterfully blended the pavilions and canals of traditional Jiangnan water towns with the style of European and American villas. The murals, stucco reliefs, and the design of the artificial canals and islands showcase the ultimate wealth and aesthetic of the era.
Back to the Republic Era: Chikan Ancient Town
As evening falls, we arrive at our final stop: Chikan Overseas Chinese Ancient Town. It boasts the largest and best-preserved cluster of Qilou (arcade buildings) in China, stretching for 3 kilometers. Recently, the town underwent a massive restoration and tourism upgrade. When tens of thousands of lights turn on at night, reflecting off the Tan River, you can ride a vintage tram through the cobblestone streets or sip craft beer at a riverside bar, feeling as though you've traveled back a century to a prosperous Republic-era town.
Kaiping City is about an hour's drive from downtown Jiangmen. Take the high-speed rail to Kaiping South Station, then a taxi or bus. Because the Diaolou clusters (Zili, Majianglong, Liyuan) and Chikan Town are spread out, renting a car or hiring a private driver is highly recommended.
Summers at the Diaolou are hot and mosquito-heavy; bring sun protection and repellent. Chikan Ancient Town is most beautiful at night, so plan to visit from late afternoon into the evening. The stairs inside some Diaolou are narrow and steep; watch your step.